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How to shoot bet­ter is a ques­tion that every pho­tog­ra­ph­er has asked at least once. Every­one has their own deci­sion — some­one turns to spe­cial­ized lit­er­a­ture, some­one hur­ries to schools and sem­i­nars, and some­one tries to fig­ure it out on their own. But we’ve put togeth­er 30 tips to help every pho­tog­ra­ph­er shoot a lit­tle bet­ter and maybe inspire them to come up with new ideas.

  • Get close
  • “If your pho­tos are not good enough, then you are not close enough,” said Robert Capa, a famous pho­to­jour­nal­ist. What did he mean? It’s very sim­ple, the pho­tog­ra­ph­er must infil­trate the envi­ron­ment, get into the cen­ter of events. Some­times it’s enough to get a lit­tle clos­er to the sub­ject to catch the char­ac­ter, mood or emo­tion. Some­times it is enough to fill the frame, reduce the amount of air in the pic­ture.

  • Shoot every day
  • Prac­tice leads to per­fec­tion. And it is very impor­tant for a pho­tog­ra­ph­er to shoot as often as pos­si­ble. Always and every­where take a cam­era with you, try to catch every pre­cious moment. Exper­i­ment, find your voice. At first, this is very impor­tant, and skills and accu­ra­cy will appear over time.

  • fol­low the light
  • Before point­ing your cam­era, always watch the light: where does it come from? Try to use nat­ur­al light to your advan­tage. The sun, if you’re out­side, can cast inter­est­ing shad­ows, an arti­fi­cial light indoors or in the dark can set the mood for the shot. Light can inter­act with the char­ac­ters, it is also a par­tic­i­pant, the sub­ject of the pic­ture. Thanks to the light, an ordi­nary frame can be dis­tin­guished and made unique.

  • Always ask per­mis­sion
  • Trav­el­ing, walk­ing, shoot­ing reports or sto­ries, you can always encounter dif­fer­ent cul­tures and expe­ri­ence the dif­fi­cul­ties of com­mu­ni­ca­tion for your­self. In some coun­tries, for exam­ple, you can run into big trou­ble try­ing to take a pho­to. There­fore, both out of respect for oth­er cul­tures and for secu­ri­ty rea­sons, it is always worth ask­ing per­mis­sion. This rule is espe­cial­ly true for shoot­ing chil­dren and rep­re­sen­ta­tives of unfa­mil­iar cul­tures.

  • Exper­i­ment with flash dur­ing the day
  • For a begin­ner in pho­tog­ra­phy, it seems that the flash is only good for night or indoor pho­tog­ra­phy. How­ev­er, this is not entire­ly true. Some­times the sun casts too hard shad­ows on the sub­ject dur­ing the day, using a flash can cor­rect this by cre­at­ing an even expo­sure and fill­ing the shad­ows with col­or.

  • ISO
  • With the use of ISO, a num­ber of ques­tions always arise. The first thing to con­sid­er is the shoot­ing time. For exam­ple, in the mid­dle of the day, on the street, you should use ISO around 100–200; If you shoot at night with­out a tri­pod, you need to increase the ISO so that the matrix rec­og­nizes the light. The sec­ond ques­tion con­cerns the illu­mi­na­tion of the sub­ject; if the space is too dark, ISO 800 or 1600 is fine. Of course, it’s impor­tant to con­sid­er the sta­t­ic of the pho­to. A high ISO is suit­able for shoot­ing a fast mov­ing sub­ject. At a low­er val­ue, blur will appear. How­ev­er, you should always remem­ber that ISO is direct­ly relat­ed to the grain in the pho­to. So avoid ISO 3200 or 6400 unless you want a grainy pho­to.

  • f/4
  • f/4 is the most basic aper­ture that each of us often refers to. A wide aper­ture with a long focus (200–400mm) allows you to high­light the sub­ject against the back­ground. And it works with­out excep­tion. So take this advice as a rule.

  • Work with the Sub­ject
  • Every pho­tog­ra­ph­er works dif­fer­ent­ly with their sub­ject. Pho­tog­ra­phers have to be a bit of a psy­chol­o­gist, because it is always impor­tant to let the mod­el open up and relieve ten­sion. Some­times in these cas­es a joke will work bet­ter than a com­mand to smile or the old “Cheese” trick.

  • Books are more impor­tant than expen­sive equip­ment
  • No, of course, a high-qual­i­ty cam­era and an expen­sive lens are impor­tant, but knowl­edge and skill are even more impor­tant. The qual­i­ty of the pho­to depends much less on the high cost of the cam­era than on the skill. Now a fan­tas­tic shot can be tak­en on a smart­phone. So it’s best to stock up on pho­tog­ra­phy books and tuto­ri­als. They pro­vide both insight into the process and inspi­ra­tion.

  • Read the instruc­tions
  • The first les­son in any pho­tog­ra­phy school is the instruc­tions for the cam­era. Each cam­era has its own char­ac­ter­is­tics, so in order to work with it, you need to know it: fea­tures, advan­tages and dis­ad­van­tages.

  • Do not hur­ry
  • Before you press the but­ton, think for a few sec­onds about what is hap­pen­ing in the viewfind­er’s cap­ture area. Com­po­si­tion, light, sub­ject, back­ground.

  • Post­pone pho­to view­ing
  • Anoth­er mis­take that pho­tog­ra­phers make in the dig­i­tal age is the desire to imme­di­ate­ly view the cap­tured frame. In reportage or event pho­tog­ra­phy, this takes valu­able time, dur­ing which some­thing spe­cial can hap­pen. As a result, you run the risk of miss­ing a good shot by look­ing at the ones already tak­en. There­fore, it is worth stock­ing up on mem­o­ry cards.

  • Fram­ing
  • This is not about a pho­to frame at all, but about a tech­nique that draws atten­tion to a char­ac­ter or object in the frame. The visu­al pres­ence of some kind of frame — an arch or a win­dow, for exam­ple, focus­es atten­tion on the sub­ject.

  • Cre­ate a shape with col­or
  • Nev­er take a pho­to when the sun is direct­ly behind. Direct light in the frame is unin­ter­est­ing. It’s best to shoot with light com­ing from the side, or even from behind — back­light­ing has its advan­tages.

  • Copy­right
  • Here the rule is sim­ple and short: the less, the bet­ter.

  • Be inter­ac­tive
  • You should not hide behind the cam­era and per­ceive the char­ac­ter of the shoot­ing as a sci­en­tif­ic exper­i­ment. Look up from the cam­era, com­mu­ni­cate, talk and be present in the moment, not just behind the lens.

  • Shut­ter speed
  • It all depends on what you are shoot­ing. If it’s a sport­ing event or live, mov­ing objects, get­ting into focus is impor­tant. To do this, use a speed of 1/500 or high­er (up to 1/2000). And, accord­ing­ly, a long expo­sure will give the effect of a trace from an object, for exam­ple, from a mov­ing car.

  • Charge your bat­tery
  • The rule seems sim­ple, but often we sim­ply for­get about it. It’s very sim­ple: put the bat­tery on charge as soon as you return from film­ing. The main thing is not to for­get to insert it back.

  • Focal length
  • This is where hav­ing a spare lens can be of great help. For exam­ple, 28mm and 35mm. This is enough for almost any type of shoot­ing: you will have enough work, but at the same time, all basic func­tions will be avail­able to you.

  • Don’t For­get to Com­mu­ni­cate
  • No need to exclude your­self from the com­mu­ni­ty of pho­tog­ra­phers — meet, net­work, learn from oth­ers and share expe­ri­ences. This always helps in pro­mo­tion and can even lead to the fact that pho­tog­ra­phy turns from a hob­by into a pro­fes­sion.

  • Shoot even with­out a cam­era
  • How? Very sim­ple: train your­self to look for a pic­ture in every­thing, mem­o­rize, recre­ate and prac­tice.

  • Be grate­ful
  • For those who shoot char­ac­ters, trav­el, etc. char­ac­ter is very impor­tant. And he, pos­ing for you, is doing a ser­vice. Try to repay him — bring a pho­to if you return, or send it by mail.

  • Try to car­ry your cam­era with you at all times.
  • So you don’t have to take men­tal pho­tos.

  • gold watch
  • The tim­ing is per­fect for nature and out­door por­traits. The light is soft­er, the col­ors are brighter.

  • Strive for sim­plic­i­ty
  • Do not try to com­pose every­thing at once in one frame. Extra ele­ments — like par­a­sitic words, lit­ter the space.

  • Don’t car­ry every­thing with you at once
  • Do not slow your­self down with a huge pho­to bag with all avail­able lens­es, fil­ters and cam­eras. Take only what you need for a par­tic­u­lar shoot.

  • per­spec­tive
  • The pho­tog­ra­ph­er can­not always stand at the height of his height — the inter­est­ing­ness of the frame depends on your dynam­ics. Some­times per­spec­tive changes how you look at a char­ac­ter or object.

  • Fol­low the back­ground
  • What is in the frame? Won’t a huge, ugly dump­ster end up in a won­der­ful wed­ding pho­to? Would you put a pole on the char­ac­ter’s head? There is always a lot of non in the viewfind­er, and you need to keep track of each.

  • Shad­ow
  • The shad­ow is the pho­tog­ra­pher’s friend. If the light is too bright or harsh, shoot in the shade.

  • gold­en ratio
  • Always, always refer to this rule, which is sim­ply called the rule of thirds. After all, it is not with­out rea­son that many viewfind­ers con­tain a grid.

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