Sooner or later, all photographers are faced with equipment malfunctions. Neither cameras nor lenses last forever. Even with the most careful, but intensive use, the need for repair or maintenance occurs regularly. However, folk wisdom rushes to the aid of a brave spirit, supplying them with recipes from “how to clean” to “how to disassemble.”
Somehow I put a “slim” polarizer on the TV set through an adapter ring and could not twist it. The situation is not critical, but pleasant enough. Having exhausted his patience and ingenuity, he turned to the Internet. I found a page with a dozen ways to twist “sticky” filters. The most humane of them had an effect, for which I was unspeakably glad. Inspired by the experience gained, he told a friend about it to a photo equipment repairman, and offered to collect the “good advice” known to him into a useful article. In response, he spoke about why such advice often goes sideways to the reader.
My friend has been resurrecting and adjusting photographic equipment for 14 years. They turn to him with any problems — from cleaning the matrix and jamming buttons to torn mounts and broken lenses. I settled down seriously — a separate room, dust filtration, a mountain of equipment on the shelves (including a microscope, a compressor, a drill and an adjustment stand). He approaches the repair responsibly and carefully, paying attention to every little thing. Instructions from the Internet are considered a disservice.
Started with my example. Indeed, in order to twist a “sticky” filter, it is possible to increase the contact area with additional filters of the same diameter and correctly distribute the force over the frame. But it also matters which part to hold the lens for. My 70–200 is lucky. But if you take the EF 35mm f/1.4L USM by the body and start twisting, the outer shell will tear off the mounts and, turning, will turn the insides into mincemeat.
It turned out that “good advice” helps people in a huge number of situations.
After the fall of the EF 50mm F / 1.4, autofocus wedges? It doesn’t matter, you need to disassemble it, remove the barrel (helicoid) and “knock with a mallet”, helping the process with a toothbrush. In addition to the barbaric recommendations for straightening a very accurate detail, the author of the instructions did not mention the careful disabling of the distance sensor and other nuances. Even if, with the help of improvised means, you manage not to spoil the barrel, but to return it to the shape of a cylinder, there is a high probability of autofocus failure.
Having a problem with the Tamron 17–50? A kind person, using the trial and error method, described in detail and step by step how to disassemble it into two dozen components. Unfortunately, the author unscrewed a few more screws than actually required. During assembly, the adjustment of the optical circuit will be violated. The removed front and rear lenses were adjusted, and it is not possible to adjust adequate sharpness without special equipment. At the very end of the article, a person ironically says that after assembly the lens can be thrown away, since part of the image is a “terrible thought”. It is close to the truth and perhaps it was worth writing this revelation at the very beginning of the text.
Did the lamp in the flash serve its purpose? In this case, you can order a part on eBay and find harsh men’s recommendations: “The flash body is disassembled in the same way as any other technique. The capacitor is discharged even with pliers, but better through a resistor (10+ kOhm)”. The reality is somewhat harsher — discharging with pliers will leave carbon deposits on the board and most likely disable the flash power control and other boards. The voltage stored in the capacitor for a long time is a decent 300 V, and under unfortunate circumstances, it can ruin not only electronics, but also health.
“Phototechnics is precision mechanics, precision optics and precision electronics. Its repair requires conditions, special tools and skills. In the motor of a car, for example, not everyone will climb to poke around. But they climb into the lenses.”- comments the master.
Do not assume that the Internet is to blame. The spirit of adventurism, curiosity and the desire to save money are not alien to the owners of expensive equipment. The combination of these qualities and the presence of several small Phillips screwdrivers allows you to add work and complexity to camera repair shops in a matter of minutes.
So, for example, when focusing on the EF 70–200mm F / 2.8L did not work correctly, the person was not at a loss and began to disassemble it himself. Having unscrewed the switch pad, he successfully cut off the cable. Handed over the damaged lens to an incompetent craftsman. As a result, during disassembly, the motherboard and the diaphragm unit were damaged. Initially, only the correct disassembly and installation of the dropped cable were required, which would have cost 3 thousand rubles. Repair after interventions cost 38 thousand.
In another case, the back of the bayonet at the Sigma 24–70 came off. Fastening the parts with superglue, the owner ruined the contact pad and the motherboard, breaking off the diaphragm block cable along the way. Instead of 5 thousand repairs got up at 25.
Superglue is a good helper in everyday life. But not in electronics repair, even cosmetic. The owner of Nikon, tired of falling off rubber bands, solved the problem with superglue, at the same time sealing all the screws tightly. When disassembling the camera, the master had to cut off the rubber bands with a scalpel and drill out the screws. For ten thousand, which cost maintenance, you could buy two sets of new rubber.
“Based on practice, I can say that independent intervention leads to an increase in the cost of repairs from five to fifteen times.”- the master continues the story.
A reference example of unskilled interference. “A guy brought me a 5D mark II. He says it’s buggy. When disassembling, I saw that a certain master soldered the legs of the contact group of the memory card slot with a soldering iron not intended for precise work. It looked scary — solder spots, soot. Apparently, something went wrong with him in the process, damaged the motherboard, the protection of the power board. Disabled the display and cables that switch the controls on the back cover. As a result, all the listed elements were subject to replacement. Even despite the fact that some of the spare parts were taken from the donor for free, the repair cost 33 thousand. And initially it was only necessary to correctly solder a couple of legs, it costs 3 thousand rubles.» The master has dozens of similar stories, just make sure to write them down.
“In order to repair complex equipment, you need special equipment. Good, accurate tool. Antistatic workplace. There is even a special chair, with an antistatic icon. Knowledge and understanding of disassembly and assembly procedures is required.
The only reasonable way to save on the repair of photographic equipment is not to try to figure it out yourself, but to take the faulty equipment to a good specialist.»
Short address of the material: fotosklad.ru/ADVICE.